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Author Topic: Senator B dash into a Carlton by Johnraka  (Read 1051 times)
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Johnraka
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Posts: 1288


I'm here to show you another path (The Unit)


« on: September 16, 2007, 09:31:37 PM »

Well, here we go with my tale of the 'Dash conversion'
Firstly I want to say that this is NOT the 'De Facto' way to do this, this is simply my experience of how I did it.
I apologise for the fact that photos only start with the Carlton dash removed but I was limited for time so had to cut a few corners.
Before you start I would recommend the following:

Open doors (it helps!) but do not open windows!
Disconnect battery - believe me, the last thing you want is wires shorting out while you are trying to drag the old dash out.
Remove front seats - if time allows, it will give you more room in which to work and will make life easier, I had planned to but just didn't have the time available.

Remember that if you do go in to use the loo or for a cup of tea etc, LOCK ALL DOORS, YOU NO LONGER HAVE CENTRAL LOCKING WITH THE BATTERY OFF (This includes the boot - sounds obvious I know but it is often the obvious that we overlook).

Now you can start in earnest...
Remove front pillar covers (This will make for easy removal and refitting)

Remove all switches and for God's sake don't do what I did, I forgot where they came from and had one hell of a job with my demister turning on the fog lights etc. Note their positions!

Remove steering wheel and column cover - you will not need the column cover as you will be using the Senator one
Empty glove box and console trinket box (if you haven't done so already)
Remove footwell panels (cardboard bits in footwells if you still have them)
Remove glove box - 4 screws at front, 1 up by the latch and two strange plastic clip things at the back, don't forget the wiring for the light and switch
Remove fuse box cover and remove 2 retaining screws
Remove radio
Remove gearchanger surround and associated bits
Remove speakers from front and 2 bolts holding centre trim in place, remove centre trim from dash, you now have access to three bolts.
Prise vent covers off of dash ends to reveal retaining bolts on end of dash, remove these and vent covers will come off (I believe that dash securing bolts are inside these ends, sorry but I removed mine ages ago when I fitted Senny door panels)
Remove ashtray and cig lighter
Face front of dash and begin removing screws from front, I think they are as follows:
2 under top of speedo cowl
1 inside headlight switch socket
2 at front by steering column
2 inside switch sockets in centre of dash
3 below heater control
1 up at top by clock or tripmeter (depending on what you have fitted)
2 down by ashtray
1 on left side of centre console and 1 on the right
2 under trinket box on centre console (prise trinket box insert out with a small screwdriver)
Remove 3 screws holding speedo in place, get hand behind it and unclip speedo cable, then remove all plugs taking careful note of where they were as the two on your left are identical (On my car the top plug had a lot of blue wires so was easy to identify)


Note: Behind the fuse box inside the dash is a small block with a relay on it, with the speedo removed you can look down the steering column towards the fuse box and see this block which is held in place by a couple of bolts, remove these bolts and the block will be free.

(I think that's it- forgive me if I have missed one but the basic rule is that if you try to pull the front plate off and it won't come, its probably because a screw has been left in somewhere - DON'T YANK IT - CHECK!)

Remove centre vent grills and pop control rod clear of thumbwheel
Using a small electrical screwdriver gently release ALL switch sockets from their mounting - don't forget the ones on the right hand side.

Remove indicator and wiper stalks from steering column
Now remove Heater control by pulling slightly downward and out
There is a multiway plug on the back for the fan control, unclip this and gently prise it off
Using masking tape and a felt marker label the control cables and release them, remove heater control completely
Prise out tripmeter (or clock) and remove any cables or plugs (depending what is fitted)
If you are changing the clock for a digital tripmeter there will be a small rectangular yellow plug behind the dash, this is for the tripmeter, the other component for this is the double-headed black button arrangement that sits in the centre console, the connection for that is at the back of the centre console on top of the window switch connections.

Remove all vent ducting

If I have remembered this correctly you can now remove the dash by unbolting the remaining bolts near the windscreen and any on each end that you have not removed.

Now remove the handbrake cover, lift the centre console and at the back you will see three plugs plugged into fixed sockets (2 if you have an analogue clock in the dash), unplug these, 2 are for your electric windows (which is why I said DO NOT OPEN WINDOWS at the start), the other is for your tripmeter control.
Prise out the window switches and the tripmeter control, unplug the Winter Mode switch and remove the bulb for the gearchanger.
Lift out the centre console and remove.

(If there is anything I have forgotten then please forgive me, I am open to correction on any of this...)

So, here are the first photos...


















































Had a slight issue here with a couple of crushed wires under the trinket box, started the car, switched on my blue led's, smoke starts coming out of the centre console...not good!








You will notice I removed that damned great triple socket from the side of the console as it fell foul of the glove box, smaller one is much neater...

Preperation I did...


Boot dye and leather food on the footwell panel


Resprayed with Hellfords vinyl paint - dark grey


Handbrake cover treated with dye and leather food


Hellfords spray again


And again...

Plus a little something extra (For the weekend sir?  Cheesy )

Straight out of an Astra/Vectra (can't remember which), couldn't fathom the wiring so soldered an old Carlton circuit board to the relevant bits, switches are courtesy of Maplins, they don't do beige... Not over happy with them but they will do for now.
It did allow me to put the Goddard LED up there as it always looked a bit odd on the dash.

Finally a nightime shot (which you have already seen on another posting but what the hell...)




It took 3 leds under the gearchanger to get the even spread of light I was after, a little bit of emery roughed up the surface nicely and got rid of the 'spotlight' effect.

That, boys and girls is about it, not brilliantly written I know and there are probably some things I have forgotten or ommitted, apologies if I have but I should imagine that with other postings on this issue and my input plus a little help from your friends you should be ok.

Advice I can give based on my experience? Apart from the above the only thing I would recommend is using the complete Senny matrix if you can, it will make fitting the ducting and heater control a lot easier.

Outstanding issues?

Yes, Winter Mode switch still needs to be wired, I think I may have got that sussed, I will add a footnote to this when done and tested.
Plus...the dreaded heater control, at present the cable is dangling in the passenger footwell so I do have some control, I am currently checking out a small motor arrangement to move the arm, will update you on that when I have some news.

Would I do it again?  To be honest...no, once was enough.
Am I glad I did it? Yes, I like the finish, I prefer the speedo position, on the Carlton dash I could never see the idiot lights with the wheel positioned where I like it, now I can.
I have also seen the inner most workings of my car and that is something we should all experience - it removes the fear...

The added advantage of a Senny dash is that you can get to everything so much easier, remove the speedo? easy peasy...
Get to the wiring without removing the console or dash? Yup, speedo out, glovebox out, centre vents out, look down and it is all there.

If you do it, I wish you all the best, hopefully some of what I have done here will be of some use to you.
The best advice I can give you above all else is...
Give yourself plenty of time and don't rush it... Wink  Wink  Wink

WINTER MODE SWITCH WIRING - SOLVED:
Think I have got it sussed...
Wires as follows (Carlton on the left, Senator on the right)

Brown/Green to Black/Grey
Green to Blue/Yellow
Brown to Brown
Black to Black

The pinout appears to be: 
Carlton -
Brown/Green - LED Neg
Green - Switch Pos
Brown - Switch Neg
Black - LED Pos

According to my mutlimeter and a 9v battery
This is how I have wired mine and it appears to work ok, however...
I accept no responsibility whatsoever in any shape or form in any universe or on any astral plane, even in a parallel dimension... if it doesn't work for anybody else and as I am skint its no good phoning your lawyers if it all goes tits up...
Sorry guys but got to cover my arse...       
« Last Edit: September 24, 2007, 09:56:20 AM by Johnraka » Logged

Regards

JD

This week I have been mostly polishing my car...
flash911
NO!! Not More Rust FFS!!
Wanted: Life
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Posts: 3659


12 Cylinders, 48 valves. ;0)


« Reply #1 on: September 16, 2007, 09:50:12 PM »

nice work john, dont think i'll  try it, but you did miss an opportunity to fit another "BLUE" LED  Wink
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One Day!
Johnraka
Wanted: Life
******
Posts: 1288


I'm here to show you another path (The Unit)


« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2007, 09:54:11 PM »

No I didn't mate, just changed the footwell ones for a single arrangement.
I had 3 under there before which is why I get that 'spotlight' effect, the back is more uniform as there are 2 with a wider spread.
So I go to Hellfords and pick up a single light fitting with a cluster of 5 led's, end result? A more even spread of light - much nicer...
Am now looking at fitting courtesy led's in the handles on the inside...
There's just no stopping me.... Grin  Grin  Grin
Logged

Regards

JD

This week I have been mostly polishing my car...
flash911
NO!! Not More Rust FFS!!
Wanted: Life
******
Posts: 3659


12 Cylinders, 48 valves. ;0)


« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2007, 09:55:40 PM »

No I didn't mate, just changed the footwell ones for a single arrangement.
I had 3 under there before which is why I get that 'spotlight' effect, the back is more uniform as there are 2 with a wider spread.
So I go to Hellfords and pick up a single light fitting with a cluster of 5 led's, end result? A more even spread of light - much nicer...
Am now looking at fitting courtesy led's in the handles on the inside...
There's just no stopping me.... Grin  Grin  Grin


sorry chap, didnt mean there  Wink
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One Day!
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