My new Dippy a wip

[melinx]

Two things operate the electric fan : - there is a pressure switch on the air con. compressor which switches the fan on if the pressure gets too high and a waxstat in the bottom of the radiator which I believe operates when the temperature reaches 105 C and drops out at 100 C.

[chrismec]

Thanks for that mate, should I check this out and what's the best way to do so or shall I just put a manual overide in?

[melinx]

At those temperatures it's impossible to do the usual 'dump it in a pan of water on the gas ring test'

The only way I can think of testing it is to cover the radiator and run it until it gets damned hot and see if the fan operates !

First though, make sure that there is no corrosion on the connectors, then short out the appropriate connectors on the waxstat plug and make sure that the fan runs (I believe that it's not unknown for the fan to have seized up)

If you want to be in control of the fan operation, certainly, put in an override switch

[chrismec]

I will prob go for the manual option, at least then I know whats what 


Cheers Mr M 

[Diplo-Matt]

Got a question about the fan, should it run when A/C is on or is it engine temp dependant?

The fan is totally independant of the aircon and is only generally (depending on who was on the production line!) fitted to cars with air-con for extra cooling as the air-con rad restricts airflow and the viscous sometimes struggles to cope in very hot weather. To test just short the temp senser plug out. If it doesnt work work check the fuse in p/side bulkhead.

I removed the viscous on mine and fitted a 'WQ' temp sensor designed for hot countrys. That turns the fan on at a much more appropriate 95 degrees.

Id change the temp sensor as a matter or course because if the viscous packs in and the tempo sensor is shagged you'l cook it very quickly.

[chrismec]

Ok thanks for that Mr D, seem to remember thier is different temp switches for this, if I'm right any idea what temp I should go for and a part number for it?

[Diplo-Matt]

Ok thanks for that Mr D, seem to remember thier is different temp switches for this, if I'm right any idea what temp I should go for and a part number for it?

I have the part number somewhere, but it starts with WQ. Andy@ drive will know the part number.

[melinx]

On my K reg. 2.6 Diplomat, the wiring, compressor switch and waxstat comply with the circuit diagram shown in the HJB for the Carlton from 93.

S76 is the compressor high pressure switch in line 748

S128 is the waxstat coolant temperature sensor in lines 744 & 745

Either of those will operate the radiator cooling fan relay K51

An extra fan may be added (line 752) for hot climates; this will operate as soon as the air con. is switched on.
I reckon the extra fan would be a definite advantage since on a hot day at low speeds with the air con. on the temperature continues to climb (mine only has the one fan)

If you short the brown wire with the white stripe on the waxstat plug to earth when the ignition switch is on it will pull in the radiator cooling fan relay and the fan should run

[diplomat2.6]

On my K reg diplomat, I asked Mr Melinx for assistance and the advice was spot on. With my car both the waxstat and the a/c pressure switch were inoperative rather than the fan.

To test, pull the cables at the rear of the compressure and use a paper clip to bridge the connectors with the ignition on. This shows the circuit will work. You can then do the same on the radiator fan switch. Mine revealed that both worked when 'bridged'. The part number for the waxstat is 90277310 and cost £41.40. They are on the same circuit, from memory. I think the 24v works from the engine management system?

As a temporary measure, I left the fan connected and this ran the battery flat in next to no time but the a/c was icy cold (probably due to the a/c compressor's variable displacement was at maximum as the reduced system pressure allowed it)

As for the a/c compressor; the first place it will leave is around the middle compressor seal. This will take up to 2 weeks. If if doesn't, you'll be ok in every likelihood.

Good luck

[melinx]

The part number for the waxstat is 90277310 and cost £41.40.

Thanks for the kind words, but isn't that the code for the coolant tank pressure cap with level sensor

[chrismec]

That's great advise from you both, thanks, not had chance to check it out yet but air con still icy cold

[chrismec]

Was having running issues with HIM this week, idle at 1200rpm not changing gear properly, changed ICV and CTS no change then discovered that the engine loom plug fixed to air box was at fault, pulled it apart, sprayed with wd40 and all in the garden is rosy again 
Also finally got round to fitting my remote central lock kit, bit of an a""e but all in and working woo

[chrismec]

More dramas today, car been running great, gets to work today and nowhere to park so parks in front of workshop waiting for a space, 10 mins later a space, starts car engine runs rough and stops will not restart, fuel me thinks(put £30 in yesterday) change fuel pump relay no change pushes car on ramp checks power at pump(in tank type) all good, drains fuel takes pump out puts on battery no good, had a spare so checked that one and it works, put it in still no fuel, takes ut back out pump works but doesn't pump fuel, goes back to original pump puts power direct to pump and it works, repairs wires fit it in car and car runs BUT won't rev above 3000rpm, checks filter, full of brown rusty fuel, new one fitted and still the same. think next thing is to clean lines forward and back and see what that does Ran out of time today so had to leave it behind and use Dippy 1

[Diplo-Matt]

sounds like a Classic case of a rotten tank to me.

[chrismec]

No mate, tank is mint 

[carlton_mad]

gonna be a wiring fault i reckon chris check the feed to the tank/pump see if there is a break somewhere!!!

[Diplo-Matt]

sounds like a Classic case of a rotten tank to me.

Somethings rotten then, sounds like its filling the filter up with crap and burning the pump out? This happended a few times on my 24v senny, it seems the internal pumps are more fragile than the external ones.

[Dave the Builder]

the loom to pump contacts are cr*p in the in tank pumps.

[chrismec]

All sorted now(touch wood) cleaned lines forward and back, no probs there, found other pump I knew was in my parts store but couldn't find it last time(typical lol) fitted that and all was good, put fuel back in drove car off the ramp down road and round corner and.....................................






















Blur it stops dead, tows it back to garage onto ramp and no fuel, so drains tank again pulls pump unit out and pipe between pump and unit had come orf(buddy crimp clips) refitted it with a jublee clip this time and been running great so far, starts better, don't have to turn it over for ages and seems to run smoother

[chrismec]

Next instalment:-
Ever since xmas drivers window has been playing up, work one day not the next, had door panel off dosed up with spray grease and WD40 still no joy(always worked when I got it in workshop) so after a conversation with our resident expert Mr Mad have a look in the passengers footwell he said, so up came the trims and carpet and............................................................................
the wiring loom has its own swiming pool, pushed the bungs out of floor to let the water out took hold of a joint in loom and it came off in my hand, rejointed the wires and all windows working again

[chrismec]

Another update;-
Found the reason for the water geting in, there was a hole in the baulkhead behind sh*t shield under wing, cleaned it all up welded plate over hole, seamsealed and undersealed so that will sto[p that side, am going to check other side before I put all the carpets back
Got a new manifold gasket this week so thats waiting to be done aswell

[chrismec]

Started on the fanimould gasket yesterday, all came apart easily but can't put it back together until I get some new bolts, didn't think thet would be a prob until I tried to find one and they are an M9 x 1.25 thread, very unusual apparently so I've had to order some from VX, 2days and can only buy a pack of 10, have taken some pics of the job and of my wheels while I'm doing it, I'll post them when I can 
Went to my local scrappys t'other day and had a right result
I found an Omega elite with black leather and bought 2 rear headrests for a fiver well £6 if you count the pound I had to pay to get in There was a third one there which I may go back and get 
__________________

[Mitch1965]

A shame about the bolts but hey, it will be fine i am sure once its done.

[chrismec]

Update;- Fanimould gasket done haven't driven it far since but a short trip down the road weds felt a whole lot smoother and no more flaaat spots, sent it round car wash place £10 inside and out came back like brand new

[Mitch1965]

Good news Chris, although i am not a fan of these car washing places anymore, not round my way that is..